Marmalade should always have a special place in our hearts–and stomachs–says Emma Hughes, who extols the virtues of making your own at this time of year.

For breakfast, this is both the best of times and the worst of times. On the one hand, the first meal of the day has never been so photographed, so elevated, so celebrated in newspapers and colour supplements. On the other, the dishes we’ve loved for decades could soon be wiped out entirely by chia-seed porridge and kale smoothies.

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(Sarah Churchill, winner of last year’s World’s Original Marmalade Awards, shares her recipe for Seville-orange marmalade).